Category Archives: Things to do in Ireland

The Powerscourt Gardens, Wicklow, Ireland.

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powerscourt gardens 1378677_daffodils

As I sit here readying for up to two feet of snow in Boston it helps to be reminded that flowers are blooming in the Lovely Powerscourt Gardens of Wicklow. I especially like to check out the gardeners blog on the Powerscourt gardens website. The first daffodil that emerged the ninth of January is contending with a bit of snow according to the head gardener, but he doesn’t seem too worried

The Powerscourt is a favorite for wedding receptions, my cousin had his there, but it is also worth a visit just to check out the gardens. Checkout the Powerscourt website as they say it the best.

powerscourt gardens, wicklow ireland,764590_powerscourt_lake

powescourt gardens,1381080_flower_by_sea

**I think it is reassuring to know that the flowers are emerging and blooming in February. For a visitor to Ireland it is surprising the variety of plants and flowers you come across. The huge calla lily plants in the fronts of cottages in Tipperary were a pleasant surprise, birds of paradise, and palm like trees made it seem I was in Bermuda.

In spots that didn’t have room for a garden you will find container plants, and blooms hanging in front of homes and businesses. The moist weather that gives the famous forty shades of green, also brings a multitude of colors.

When you decide to head over to Ireland and you arrange your itinerary try to include a tour of a local garden. There are so many sides to Ireland, and the gardens of Ireland are one of the most pleasant.

powerscourt gardens, 591503_facade_with_flowers

 

Have you travelled to one of the gardens of Ireland and seen the myriad of colors? Sometimes the best gardens are located on the facades of B&B’s, businesses and pubs. it seems like any object that will hold soil is an excuse to plant some blooming plants. Back in the day my father grew annuals in our greenhouse and I’ll have to say I’m a sucker for a properly grown geranium. I’m also jealous of the beautiful container gardens that brighten up the Irish landscape.

Cheers.

 

 

where is your favorite Irish garden?

Irish tourist, American tourist, and a pink B&B

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The Dingle peninsula is a picture perfect vacation spot when visiting Ireland. My wife and IIrish tourist stayed out on the peninsula on Slea Head in a beautiful Irish B&B overlooking the Atlantic ocean and the Blasket Islands. Besides telling you what a nice spot Dingle is or that we enjoyed ourselves to the max, our stay pointed out some differences between Irish locals, Irish tourists, and American tourists in Ireland.

 We headed out onto the Dingle Peninsula onto Slea head, a beautiful scenic road skirting the cliffs overlooking the Atlantic ocean. As a Tourist we could have looked out over the ocean for days and been happy. As you head out you will find a grotto, a Shrine, cut into the cliff, a perfect place to contemplate the greatness in this world, just past this shrine was a nice little B&B.

                                                                                  Irish Shrine Dingle Ireland

Irish tourist

 

The B&B overlooked the beach used as a location in the movie “Ryan’s Daughter” and we never thought twice about the bright pink color covering the exterior of the building. The Inn keeper was a pleasant woman who was originally from Pennsylvania, when she decided to pick up and move to Ireland. A bold move and we listened as she told us how she has assimilated to the Irish ways of doing things. But you know  we didn’t travel to Ireland to hear about Pennsylvania so we headed out to Dingle town.

 

Using proper pub etiquette we find ourselves in a nice conversation with a couple on holiday from Dublin. We were included in some serious conversations on some of the troubles that were occurring at the time, we listened and kept our comments to ourselves.irish tourist We would be leaving in a week or two, But the local Irish and the Dublin tourists had an interesting discussion. Remember, it is best to stay out of political discussions unless you love confrontation, debate, and endless argument. Also the perspective of an outsider will never have the same weight as the perspective of one who lives with the decisions and actions of the local politicians. The conversation returned to less volatile subjects and we had a really nice night out. As we left, we told our Dublin friends that we were staying out by the shrine on Slea head, they asked “Is that the pink one run by the yank?” “oh I’d love to see that one”.

The next day we make a date for lunch and they meet us at our pink B&B, so they can take a peek. First reaction of the Dubs is ” the local farmers must love this” “Pink” “they irish touristmust think she is crazy”. “Teddy bears, did you see all those teddy bears? I never so so many teddy bears”, did you hear how she said she loved keeping an authentic Irish B&B?”  My God I’ve never seen such a place”. They went on a bit more about the local farmers and how they must shake their heads at this place. They also had a good laugh at some of the things the landlady said pertaining to her Irish way of doing things. We headed on down to lunch and had a great lunch and some good chats.

What I was left with was an appreciation of the different points of view. The local Dingle guys never would have discussed the inside politics about the very grave occurrences that were happening at that time with a visiting American, except that they were guests of a Dublin couple. The Dublin couple were vacationing and glad to chat a bit with another couple. They also determined that this American couple would fit in fine with their Dingle brethren. The American tourists (we) never questioned the out of the place look of that bright pink B&B, or the American look of the interior, and the American ways of the “Irish innkeeper. In the end I learned to listen a bit better, and assume a bit less, which in turned let me enjoy my vacation a bit more.

Cheers.

 

Irish turf

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Irish turf, The fuel that warmed many an olde stone cottage back in the day, dug from the bogs of primordial peat to dry in the fields when the sun was shining. If I where a typical American tourist, and in many ways I am, I would believe that those were the days. The peat fire burning, giving off that unique aroma as only a real Irish turf fire can, as it warmed the thatched cottage on a moist winters day. Really paints a picture.

Irish artist Bobby Anderson who alas departed this world in 1995 captured the cutting of the turf in his work title the same. I had the pleasure of speaking with his son at the Showcase Dublin show many years ago and just loved Bobby’s work. I think Mr. Anderson captured all sides of the cutting of the turf, the good the bad and the back breaking.

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When Irish turf was the source for fuel, it was dug with a turf spade, a long thin shovel like implement, designed to take a log or brick of wet heavy peat from the bog. These logs of turf would then have to be stacked in teepee like piles to have the water in them evaporated by the occasional sun. Once dried, they would be loaded into baskets on to your favorite donkey or mule, to be stacked once again. Really back breaking work.

When I look at this painting, I see a proud man taking care of his family with broad shoulders and a strong back. The simple times, with long tasks to be completed but with a satisfaction attached to it that is hard to describe. This would be the perspective of those who have the luxury of romanticizing about the past. Most American tourists would fall into this group. There are other ways of looking at the same thing.

Irish turf

Irish turf

Once back in my shop a couple was browsing. There was a product called Irish turf incense that when lit gave off the smell of a turf fire. Nice little product, a Tipperary girl runs the company, A Gifted hand. So this couple consisted of an American girl and an Irish fella. The girl says to him “ Oh Declan look turf, we should get some, it’ll remind you of back home.” This fella looks at me and sums up what most if not all that ever dug turf would say.

…..“I’ve dug enough of that shite to last me a life time, no thanks.”

I laugh every time some one goes on about a blazing turf fire as this fella’s comments were so genuine and spot on.

That being said I do a lot of laughing at myself, because not having spent weeks or months breaking my back digging peat from the ground, I enjoy a nice turf fire, especially in an old restaurant or pub. There is nothing that brings back memories as well as aromas, and the turf when burned is aromatic and unique. For those of you who are American, and are older than 45, try to remember the smell of burning leaves, as when I was a kid everyone burned their leaves in the fall. On a rare occurrence someone will burn leaves today and the memories of my youth come flowing back.

This past Christmas Irish turf as always was a hot item, The smell of a turf fire on Christmas eve brings back memories of Christmases past. The turf available in the States isn’t as aromatic as the turf logs. Only compressed peat bricks are allowed to be imported into the country. Many times people would buy a box of peat bricks and also a box of turf incense, this way they could have the smell, the warmth, and the look of a real turf fire.

Maybe I’ll put some good Irish folk music on the player, throw a brick or five of Irish turf on the hearth, pour myself a nice cup of Barry’s or Lyon’s Irish tea, and open a sleeve of milk chocolate Hob Nobs, and enjoy.

Cheers.

 

 

Know you are a tourist.

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Being a tourist isn’t a bad thing, in fact being a tourist is one of my favorite things in the world, especially when I’m an Irish tourist. You will make choices that will whisper tourist or make choices that will scream tourist, with bells ringing and horns blaring. So we’ll touch on a few of the biggies that will finger you as an American tourist in Ireland

  1. Irish hand knit sweater.                                                                                                   Now you would think that beautiful Aran hand knit sweater that you received for Christmas would be the Ideal garment to wear about in Ireland. Now it would be the ideal sweater to wear attending a St.Patricks day parade in Boston, New York, or Chicago, but ironically not in Ireland. The classic cream colored Aran knit sweater is rarely worn by local Irish. You may rarely find colored Aran knits worn by locals but you will never see the classic combinations of American tourist Aran knit sweaters and…….
  2. Fanny pack.                                                                                                                                Fanny Pack and Irish hand knit sweater combination will make you stick out like a sore thumb. We American tourists proudly showing our heritage with the sweater and the tourist bullseye brightens with the fanny pack. Next we’ll go for the triple play….
  3. The patch cap.                                                                                                                        Ah yes, nothing says American tourist more than an Irish knit sweater, a fanny pack, and a proper Irish cap, but not any Irish cap but an Irish patch cap. Any of these apparel items wouldn’t separate you from the pack as a stereotypical American tourist but the three in unison is classic.
tourist
(The above image is of a model not a tourist. If you are a model you will be allowed to wear your Aran Knit. But even this model wouldn’t wear the patch cap.)

Now even if you avoid the Tourist trifecta, you will still be do things that will label you as an American tourist.

  • You will wear white socks with sneakers and shorts.
  • You will stare at a menu guessing what exactly you are ordering
  • You will make mistakes in pub etiquette, unless you have clicked on my cleverly positioned link

And of course even if you dress like a local, learn the menu’s, learn the etiquette, learn the local slang, there is the one thing that will always point you out as an American tourist…You will speak. Provided you have used good tourist etiquette and listened a bit, your Irish hosts will speak back, because you will be a pleasure to talk to.

Cheers…. You have any American tourist tip offs, then leave a comment.

My Irish Christmas card

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Merry Christmas to all,The Traditions we keep to sustain the Christmas feeling far out weigh the costs. This season we will have experts tell people to pinch a penny here, battle for a bargain there, when the reason for buying gifts has nothing to do with thrift. A gift is bought to convey joy and to remember who gave us the greatest gift of all.

When I ran my little shop there would be people come in who were frazzled from shopping. I would have them sit down and relax, get them a cup of tea and maybe even get a laugh out of them. Many would make my shop part of their Christmas tradition because they felt a little more connected to Christmas there, less frenzied, more Happy.

Irish Christmas

Christmas traditions will vary from place to place, some are festive some are spiritual, some are helping, The Irish Christmas Candle in the Window is a beautiful tradition. A candle placed in the window for those wandering travelers with no room in the inn might have a place to stay. My wife always has a candle in the window, be it an electric candle, to welcome the Christmas spirit into the house.

So to all I wish a very Merry Christmas and a happy New Year full of joy and remembrance of what truly makes you happy.

Cheers,

Brian.

 

 

American football in a Dublin pub

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Dublin is a city with many sides and stories, I supposed it would be more appropriate to say raised on songs and stories to steal a phrase. There are many who could tell you secret spots and special tales of growing up in and around Dublin, and hopefully she will be guest posting soon, I on the other hand appreciate the different types of Dubliners one meets and this story revolves around them and American football.

Visiting my cousin during a buying trip in January, typically mirrored the NFL playoffs, this cousin moved to Ireland from the U.S. and looked forward to watching the games with some one from home. So he and a few other ex-pats  had watched the games before in a sports bar that was empty the week before and the bartender said they could watch the next weeks game too, if nothing else was on.

So I meet my cousin and his two friends at this sports bar that had at least a dozen tv’s showing the Madrid soccer league game. Now we know that American football in Ireland is way down on the list of viewing choices, but ask the fellow if he could turn one of the tv’s to sky sports. The bartender tells us that all the tv’s are on the same circuit and can’t set one different than the other. So we tell him not to worry about it, but it would have been nice to see the game. To prove there is a God, at the same time there is a fella at the bar who thinks the bartender is going to turn the tv’s from the soccer to watch that American football shite, and starts arguing with the bartender.

http://youtu.be/JoNJFvIXBW0

We watch the argument rage on until the bartender turns the tv’s every one of them from the soccer match to an American Football game, you could hear the groans throughout the place, and the bartender says in a loud tone ” I told these fellas they could watch their game, so stuff it.” Now in further proof of a divine power, we turn to the bartender and tell him its not that important of a game, since we wanted to get out of the bar alive. He is adamant and turns the volume of the American football game up. So since we weren’t going to survive for more than a minute or so we sit down and watch the game. A bunch of fellas come over and we figured this would be our escort out of the place with a bounce or two included, but instead one of the guys says “Gerry really p**d Jackie off how’s this game work?” So we spent the rest of the night watching football in a Dublin pub laughing and explaining American football with a bunch of great Dubs.

And yes this really happened.

Cheers.

Guest Post: Galway Races Banter

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Hello there! Caroline O’Shea here, daughter of the illustrious Brian and the first guest blogger here at Ireland Favorites. As an Irish musician, I’ve gotten to travel all over Ireland and parts of the States playing music and meeting the most interesting characters. Last spring, I was lucky enough to study abroad at the National University of Ireland, Galway (NUIG!) for about six months. That six-month stint has worked wonders for me back here in Boston–because in the last few weeks, 70% of the older Irish crowd I’ve met have been from Galway, and most of them, Connemara. Galway has lots of amazing cultural and sporting events like Galway Arts Week, the Galway Sessions, and of course, the Galway Races, which this banter concerns. I’ve grown to love the Galway accent because it reminds me of playing sessions at the Crane bar, walking along the Prom, having complete freedom and not living with my parents…wait, where was I?

Oh yeah. Galway. Banter.

I was at work at the Irish Cultural Centre in Canton, MA the other day, and got to chatting with one of the electricians, a man named Eddie. Eddie’s flying across pond in a few weeks for a wedding. Turns out, he’s a Galway man, and when he learned I’d been to Galway, his eyes lit up with glee. After complaining about the horrific price of plane tickets and the dreary summer weather for the required amount of time, he asked me: “Do you know that pub across the bridge in Galway there, Monroe’s?” I did indeed (there’s weekly set dancing, and a great late-night pizza place beside it).

“Well! I know Monroe’s son,” he said, “and this year he’d entered a horse in the Races. Monroe’s son started spreading the word that if his horse was to win, he’d have an open bar at Monroe’s for two hours. Two hours!” Eddie paused to let us appreciate the magic of this declaration. “So wouldn’t you know it, but the Races finished up and Monroe’s son’s horse won! Odds were 11-1.  He opened up that bar for two hours, free to anyone who’d bet on his horse, ah jaysus I can’t remember the horse’s name but…two hours…” He shook his head.

“If I could’ve flown to Monroe’s for those two hours, I’d have said no bother to the price of the flights. Worth every penny!”

After lamenting about the lack of open bars in the Boston area, Eddie headed off to more pressing business, while I tried to imagine the scene at Monroe’s that fateful day. I imagine it was a Galway Race attendee’s Eden–just louder, smellier, and with Jameson’s instead of holy water. Goes to show you never know what’ll happen at the races! And if betting isn’t your cup of tea, there’s always Ladies’ Day, with competitions for Best Dressed and Best Hat. If anyone has any extra passes for next year, you know how to contact me….

Galway

You can find out more about the races here: http://www.galwayraces.com

 

And you can find out about Monroe’s here! http://www.monroes.ie

~Caroline

Irish roots, Irish genealogy, Irish expectations.

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Irish roots, Irish genealogy, Irish expectations, can all lead to a fulfilling trip to Ireland but be aware of the modern day pit falls that can be encountered along the way.The Irish people are not all the same. This seems simple enough, but it can be the hardest tip to learn.

Irish genealogy

For the most part you will run into the most industrious, interesting, patient, and pleasant, folks you would ever want to meet. You will also run into some miserable energy stealing louts. You may run into some folks who are nice but just sick of tourists. It is your job to know a few rules and know how to avoid the negative few.

When prompted with provoking opening statements don’t take the bait. Examples; Bush invades iraq for oil, Obama he’s as Irish as my behind, You Americans think….   The response to openings like these is a polite no comment, politics is a game best left unplayed, A long time ago when tensions were high between north and south I found myself in Dingle in a pub with Irish friends who were discussing the subject. I listened, learned some, I kept my opinions to myself. You never know who is affected by your comments, you don’t know the players involved, unless you are planning to move to Ireland or are a scholar on a particular issue it’s best to leave these things alone

Ireland tourism spends a lot of money each year promoting Irish tourism, this results in Irish tourist, as in any tourist area the local population gets a little tired of dealing with the same old touristy stuff day after day. So be polite, don’t ask demeaning questions, Know that most people live in modern houses not thatched cottages, they have a hectic work week like the rest of us and are not there to entertain you, (I make this point a lot so it will sink in), but as with all new encounters many will be entertaining.

The pub is a social gathering place, its where you are apt to have some good conversation and some good laughs, if you are part of a tour the tour operator will take care of you, but it’s good to know the proper pub etiquette for patrons of the pub, you may find yourself on your own, know the rules.

The things that are universal, the sites of Ireland are wondrous. Each county is different, each county man is proud of his county. A little praise or flattery goes a long way. My cousin and I are in Tullamore in Offaly, and the first thing he talks about with the local Tullamore guy is how wide and nice the main street is, this never occurred to me, but the street was wide and in good shape. The fellow went on about the history of why the streets were so good, really proud of his town.

When you open your mouth and words come out the locals know you are a tourist. Let them ask you about your Irish connection, it takes a little longer but the trick is to have them convince you that you are Irish instead of the other way around. People born in Ireland are Irish, we who are born in other countries are of Irish descent.

Use the tourism office for places of interest. If you are researching your family genealogy they can show you the places where church records are stored, they may even know the family name and make a connection for you. Being invited in to the connection is the key.

Genealogy research will start at home, using death certificates and church records. Many searches will be traceable to the the famine years, and that is also where you’ll have the most trouble finding information. Desperate people in dire straits headed on crowded ships to the four corners of the earth, many to the U.S, many to Canada, some South America or Australia. The stories of Ellis Island tell of families names changed or forgotten, if information wasn’t available it was made up. My name can be traced back to my great grandfather who was born on the ship to America he was categorized as an American born in Framingham. The death and famine they left prevented them from romanticizing the old country which in turn mean’t they left no stories of the places they were from besides their name. They were one straw in a haystack among thousands of haystacks. If you can find a death certificate of this first generation American it may have the place of birth of their parents of Ireland. A good blog for tracing Irish roots is written by Deborah Fox she is a real genealogist, so I highly recommend her website.

Ireland is a beautiful, welcoming vacation destination, whether you visit for the Irish music, the Irish food, the Irish fun, or do an Irish genealogy vacation, you sure to have a craicin good time.

Cheers,

Irish weather and summer travel

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It seems like a simple premise, travel to Ireland during the warmest part of the year and the Irish weather will maybe be a little damp but for the most part Glorious. What most people don’t take into account is the swing in temperatures even in the Irish summer months. I was checking out some other Irish travel blogs when I saw a nice group of pictures showing some tight Irish country roads. In the background where gray clouds, and you could feel the temperature dropping, as the wind blew in off the Atlantic coast. It’s funny how one picture can bring back memories, the memories these pictures brought back were of perceived warm days turned upside down, to be downright bone chilling.

Irish weather changes coming.

We were staying in Letterkenny, Donegal, and it was a glorious sunny day, we headed north toward Malin Head for a scenic little drive and a bite to eat on the way. We stopped into  the Waters Edge restaurant and guest rooms in Rathmullen.

waters edge restaurant RathMullen Donegal

beside the fact that we had no expectations, the Waters Edge was a nice find, we had three children with us and four adults and we were courteously  taken care of and the food was quite good. The Irish weather on the other hand was not as courteous. We entered the restaurant on a pleasant warm note and departed into a raw biting cold wind off the water. I’ mean a double sweater and windbreaker type weather that almost had us turn around and go home. Now that would have been a mistake, as we continued up the coast to Malin head. The scenery from the warmth of our car was beautiful, and the half hour drive to five fingers beach Malin head  brought back warm temperatures.

Five fingers beach / strand Donegal Ireland

The rest of the afternoon brought back hot summer breezes and we played wiffle ball on the beach, and tossed around a football for a bit. My youngest took of toward the water and we took a nice brisk dip on a beautiful Irish strand on what could have been described best as Glorious.

The Irish weather is always unpredictable, always pack accordingly;

  • When cooler, or cold, dress in layers, so you can peel off one or two if needed
  • Always plan for showers—rain gear.
  • Wool sweater or fleece jacket, as cotton will absorb water.
  • Remember if caught by an unexpected storm, it never rains in the Pub.
Cheers,
Brian

Irish kayaking

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Irish kayaking a nice way to spend a day, with Ireland being an Island it is of course surrounded by ocean which lends itself to water sports. The west of Ireland being an especially beautiful waters edge has birthed many kayaking companies. The carved out caves and rock formations are beautiful on their own, add bird watching, night tours, and even whale excursions and you have an Irish Kayaking adventure in the making. checkout these Kayaking Ireland sites for Cork , Waterford, Galway.

Kayaking on the Corrib

Irish kayaking

The nice thing about an Irish kayaking vacation is that you can set up base in one region of Ireland and have an activity to look forward to. Spend a day at Kinsale Cork, eat at the great restaurants, stroll the cobblestone streets, and hit the pub. The next day head out on the ocean and discover Ireland with the unique view point of an Irish kayak.

Irish kayaking in ireland

Irish kayaking for the family

The nice part of sea kayaking is that the whole  family can participate, the tour directors are used to tourist and their business is for you to have a good time. They also have deep water tours and overnight excursions.

For the more adventurous and skilled Irish kayakers, hit the wild rivers of ireland.